Dirt, Friends, Cold Showers

¡Hola, amigos! Hemos estado a México para 10 dias.

We just finished our first week of work. It feels good to have a routine for a while. We have been working with the Epiphytes Garden in beautiful San Cristóbal de las Casas.

As I prepare throughout our travels to be a farmer, I am happy to discover that I have no problem doing hard work on the land. Even though we are only working for about four hours per day, I feel confident that I will be able to handle the work load of a new farm. Surely, I feel sore in the morning, but not overly so. And I have blisters on my hands, but skin toughens over time. Most mornings I have awoken early enough to have time to meditate on the rooftop.

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digging a hole for one of the cisterns

It has been a pleasure working with the eclectic group of volunteers. We are making fast friends. There are volunteers from Norway, France, Belgium, Mexico, Korea and USA on our project team. We haven’t met many Americans in this city. Or, as we are called here, Norte Americanos: North Americans. Because Mexicans rightfully view themselves as Americans as well.

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Fellow volunteers Bo Min, Faviola, and Hoon.

With this group of volunteers and locals (five locals working with us), the language alternates between English and Spanish, but is usually English. We feel quite privileged to speak English natively as it is the lingua franca around the world. At the same time, we are not abusing this privilege and are making efforts to learn Spanish. We are learning more every day. I hope to continue to learn Spanish over the next few years.

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time for an errand for the garden. When in Mexico, ride in the back of a noisy pickup! Mags, Josepha, and Hoon.

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in the pickup with Ricardo.

We have stayed in two different hostels in San Cristobal de las Casas. For the first three nights, we stayed in a hostel with free drinking water, use of a kitchen, and free breakfast. With our volunteer program through Nataté, our fee includes our current accommodations at Hostal del Centro. The location is wonderful, and the room is spacious. We volunteers mostly have the entire building to ourselves. However, there is little-to-no hot water, the rooms smell rather musty, our restroom doesn’t have a toilet seat, and our bed and door both broke. It is certainly not the end of the world as it is mostly just a place to sleep and (cold) shower, but our stay would certainly be more pleasant in a slightly nicer place. However, I get the sort of feeling that all of this is just making our whole travel experience more rich and complete.

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Mags leading our daily morning exercise group. Stretching, strengthening our body for digging and pounding.

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another amazing meal! Potato and onion cakes fried in happy egg batter. All local and organic.

One more week of volunteer work, and then we go to Belize for camping and learning. This weekend we are visiting a Zapatista community and going on a hiking tour.

Full pictures from this portion of our trip: one and two

Natatépi

Posted in farming, Mexico | Leave a comment

Cancun and San Cristobal de las Casas – Day 1

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I don't enjoy flying, but if we're going to it might as well look like this.

We flew from Las Vegas to Cancun via Dallas. We could have gotten closer, but we wanted to use our American Airlines miles. We spent a day in Cancun. We find that when you have plenty of time, it is best to give yourself downtime between activities. And we had quite an activity coming up, namely a 19-hour bus ride from Cancun to San Cristobal de las Casas.

We made the most of our brief stay in Cancun. We stayed in an inexpensive hotel downtown and took the local bus to the beach with our grocery store meal of chicken, rice, tortillas, guacamole, and pickled cauliflower.

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Delicious and cheap grocery store lunch, at the beach.

One nice thing about Mexico is the cheap prices. We had dinner of three tacos, a Coke, and a tamale for 40 pesos: about three dollars.

But our temporary tropical paradise was at an end. It was time for our epic bus ride. To make the ride a little more bearable, I opted for the ADO Ejecutivo bus. Well, I am sure it was slightly nicer than the normal ADO bus, but still not great. It is as good as it gets. Movies to watch, two bathrooms, generally clean. But their advertised coffee and tea station in the back ran out pretty quickly, as did the water in the men’s bathroom. To make up for it all, however, were the amazing views of the mountains and all the little Mayan towns we went through.

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Absolutely stunning views during the 19-hour bus ride from Cancun to San Cristobal de las Casas. This picture doesn't do it justice.

Finally we arrived in San Cristobal de las Casas. We find the city to be very welcoming and friendly in general. Currently we are downtown in a nice and inexpensive hostel with breakfast included. It is a short walk to good shops and restaurants, and a longer walk to the local markets which are teeming with life.

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We have missed fresh fruits! We shall miss them no more.

During the day we visited the Mayan Medicine Museum. It was inspiring to see and read about land-based healing techniques that are very personal and effective.

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At the Mayan Medicine Museum.

Last night we visited a festival in the town center with loud techno music, dancing, and many vendors selling beautiful textiles. Mags is currently lusting over a bright alpaca wool hoodie that is just over $10. The main conundrum is if you buy it then you either have to carry it with you or ship it home. We’ll have pictures from this night out available later.

Today we are purely tourists for one more day. Then tomorrow we start our two weeks of volunteering at a botanical garden that is being built in town. We will stay in housing with the other volunteers. We will learn natural building techniques, water systems, and local plants. We’re looking forward to meeting people, getting our hands dirty, and doing something useful and productive.

Click here for the full Picasa album from this part of our trip.

Posted in Mexico | 4 Comments

Las Vegas and the Grand Canyon

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Each portion of our journey has a theme. This portion is the desert!

From St. Mary’s County, Maryland, we went to Washington, DC, to deal with the bureaucracy of obtaining visas for Taiwan. It wasn’t a painless or inexpensive process, but we do indeed have our visas at this time. So that is a huge weight off of our shoulders. From there we entered Arlington, Virginia, where we visited Connie, Ed, Stephanie, and Pogo for a night. Connie is eyeing retirement, Ed is happy working a few more years at his job, and Stephanie is working as a farmer and program manager of sorts for a program for at risk young men. Pogo is turning into a curmudgeonly middle-aged dog, but still as loveable as ever. Unfortunately we didn’t get any pictures of this night.

We flew to Las Vegas via San Francisco, of all places, for free using our Virgin America airline miles. We stayed in Henderson, NV, just a few miles outside of Vegas. It was nice not being on the hustle and bustle of the strip.

Mags taught students for a week at Touro University with a group called Project Prepare. Project Prepare teaches medical students how to perform gynaecological and urological exams. Meanwhile, Stu acted as chauffeur, went running at Lake Mead National Recreation Area, and did some errands.

With the Project Prepare group, we had a great time. The group on this trip was a lively bunch of about a dozen educators from the Bay Area. One night we went out for a typical nice Las Vegas dinner buffet. Another night we hit up the luxurious Korean spa. We sure we roughing it!

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Our carpool mates and hotel hangout buddies Heather and Gina.

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Stu taking his chances!

 

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Helen, Kristy, and Mags relaxing after a long day of work.

Because of how the economics of frequent flier miles works, it made sense for us to not leave Las Vegas until this coming Tuesday, January 17. That gave us a few days with nothing to do. How fortunate! Off to the Grand Canyon we went.

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All bundled up while taking in the chilly majestic sunset at the Grand Canyon.

Yesterday, we went for a long hike on the South Kaibob trail. The weather was quite optimal, but even so, with low humidity and high elevation, it was a difficult 4.5-hour hike. Today we set off on the Bright Angel trail but soon turned around due to very icy trail conditions. Instead we did a much easier scenic walk along the rim.

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Strong Mags

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Every year, about 350 people have to be rescued from the canyon, and a dozen or two people die, either due to suicide or overextending themselves on their hikes. Most who die are 18-45-year-old males. A popular way to see the trails without the strain is to take a mule ride. The mules are quite sure-footed.

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Only the guide was smiling on the way up

The Grand Canyon is breathtaking in its scale, power, and beauty. The National Park Service has done an excellent job making sure that the man-made structures and facilities are not noticeable when taking in the beauty of the canyon. We hope to come back one day to do a backpacking trip from the North Rim to the South Rim, or perhaps a canoe camping trip down the Colorado River.

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Angle Bright Canyon/ Fault line

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Our typical cheap meal on the go. Gourmet lunch on the Rim: Wasa sourdough rye crisp bread, spicy brown mustard, humus, avocado, salami

 

Tomorrow we head back to Las Vegas for one night where we will stay with our friends Andi and David. They also hosted us our first night in Vegas. They are gracious hosts and had a nice little BBQ party when we were there last week.

From there we head to Mexico on Tuesday. By the 22nd we need to be in San Cristobal de las Casas, where we will be volunteering for two weeks at a botanical garden. This should be a great experience.

We are looking forward to the warm weather. We also both agree that the heart and soul of our trip will begin when we leave the country. Except for one day, Tuesday will begin eight months of being out of the United States consecutively. We can’t wait! Buenos noches!

Click here for the full picture album of this portion of our trip.

Posted in Grand Canyon, Las Vegas | 1 Comment

Woodburn Hill Farm

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We ate delicious golden yoked eggs most mornings.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We drive to Southern Maryland after visiting Grandma Lois in Northern Virginia.  We pass slowly trotting horse-drawn buggies and turn onto a small country road, Woodburn Hill Road.  We pass small family farms, grassy fields, wooly horses, and four young Amish children walking home pulling two more children on a wagon. Finally at the end of the pavement, the road turns to gravel and we see the sign, “Woodburn Hill Farms” (WHF).  We park and walk further down the road noticing a harvested garden, wind chime and a big red barn, when a man with a fluffy white beard smoking a pipe waves to us and beckons us to the Main House.  Linda and Neil are the first to greet us.  They raised their children on the farm and have lived in this community for 20+ years.  Through the rest of the day we explore the farm, meet the other residents, and help to prepare a delicious family-style meal of Syrian Stew with Phebe, one of the original share owners-residents from the 1970’s.

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WHF Barn now houses goats, antiques, and a wood shop. In previous years it hosted chickens, concerts, weddings, and estate sales.

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Mags feeds the goats kitchen scraps and apple cores

We stay for three nights and check out the neighboring towns of Mechanicsville and Leonardtown (the county seat of St. Mary’s County.)

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Stu standing guard at the Old Jail cannon in Leonardtown, MD

Although only 40 miles from Washington D.C. this area maintains an agricultural focus due to the large Amish population.   Quiet rural life is appealing here.  WHF covers 120 acres of mostly woods, 20+ acres of cultivated fields, ponds, creeks, and seasonal streams. They have substantial infrastructure for farming with roads, equipment, and a cluster of buildings. There are currently six open bedrooms for new short-term or long term residents. Unfortunately of the 12 adult residents none are active in farming.  A few work from the farm, most residents commute for work as teachers, health practitioners, chimney sweep, massage therapist, yoga teacher, artists, musicians and other trades.

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Stacks: wood and kindling for heat, straw for the goats.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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The Artery in red houses a crafting space. The white outbuilding houses gardening and farming equipment.

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Emu near the Amish box store

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We find an old lookout/tree house.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The community here is warm and friendly, showing us around and letting us tag along on farm chores.  They are concerned about the aging population and the future of this beautiful property.  We think there is a huge potential for success.  What this intentional community needs are a few energetic folks to bring this farm back to its agricultural roots.  Could we be the right ones?  Stay tuned to find out.  You can now subscribe to our blog with email updates making it easier to follow along and comment on our travels!  Just look to the right for our new subscription feature.

 

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Potluck dinner with WHF residents. (L to R): Neil, Stu, Mags, Linda, Chris, Phebe, Justin, Frank

A huge thank you to Woodburn Hills Farm and its kind residents for hosting us!  We wish you the best.           The photo album from this part of our trip here

Posted in farming, Intentional Communities | Tagged | 4 Comments

Christmas Break in Pennsylvania

The Christmas season chills your lungs with the crisp cold air and warms you up with warm spiced fresh apple cider.  On the last leg of our train journey, we went from Chicago, IL, to Harrisburg, PA, with a one-day stop in Pittsburgh, PA. It was only a day, but we really enjoyed Pittsburgh. We ate breakfast at a great neighborhood diner where everybody knew everyone’s name (except for us) and our breakfast, coffee and tea totaled $11 including tip.

I went for a run along the river, going by the old Heinz 57 varieties factory. Then we both went for a long walk from the Bloomfield neighborhood to downtown all the way to the joining of rivers at Fort Pitt.

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olive bar

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Cheese for yards at Stamoolis Brothers Co. Grocery

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

On the way to downtown, we passed through The Strip district where we found many old specialty shops, selling meats, cheese, produce, biscotti, candy, and most any other food you could think of. It must be nice living in this area, and probably expensive, too, since it is right next to downtown.

We appreciate friends of a friend Jordan, Boback, and Kathryn letting us stay at their home with their dog-like cats. And thanks to Dan for helping us arrange this stay!

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Graceful bridges of the Alleghany River

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We hop back on the train for our last 6 hours to Harrisburg and had lunch with Rich, Wendy, Mom, and Dan.

The next day was Christmas Eve and in this family that means making Welsh cookies and going to see Dad’s side of the family at Aunt Elaine’s. Anna is now old enough to help make the cookies. It is a family recipe that seems to be the only remnant of our Welsh heritage.

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Anna really enjoyed mixing the dough by hand.

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The cookies are no-grease fried on a skillet. Plenty of shortening in the dough, so they don’t stick.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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The Welsh cookies look like this when they’re done.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We’ve had a great time with family. Christmas eve was at Aunt Elaine’s home in Maryland. Every year we exchange gifts, eat cheese crackers, ham, and lots of sweets, and take lots of pictures.

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Grandma Lois with her grandkids and great greatkids

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Practicing alphabet letters. Rich’s gift letter “B” for Brandy.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Mom and Dan came to visit on the 26th. We exchanged gifts and they got to play with the kids.

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Mr. Dan with Gammy holding grandbaby Lucas. Stu and Anna look on from behind.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A couple days after Christmas, we took a day trip to Philadelphia where Mags and cousin Jodi saw each other for the first time in eight years!

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cousins very happy to see each other

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Cousins Mags and Jodi reunite in Philly after 8 years.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We walked from Philly City Hall to touristy-but-fun South Street. We stopped at a vegetarian restaurant for lunch and to wait out the pouring rain. We looked through windows at the Magic Garden, browsed Wooden Shoe Books, a nice anarchist bookstore, then saw The Descendants, which was a great movie! For dinner we stopped by Jim’s Steaks. It is a very famous place for Philly Cheesesteaks. It is traditional to get Cheez Whiz on your steak.

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In the City of Brotherly LoveThe detailed mosaic art inspires art around the city

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We then had a day in Maryland. We saw Berger at George’s Restaurant. I worked at George’s for 3.5 years. Rich also worked there for a year+. As far as I am concerned, they have the best pizza around. We also got to walk around the neighborhood I grew up in and even play a game of basketball on the court Berger and I have played on hundreds of times.

We finished Maryland day by visiting family at Kim and Chi’s house. They have two kids, Sammy and Ben. Uncle Henry, Aunt Barb, and Keith were also there. It is always nice seeing them and catching up.

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Stu and Berger enjoy their favorite pizza at George’s Resturant, Arnold, Maryland

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We will be celebrating New Years Eve at Rich and Wendy’s home with champagne and board games. Then we are off to Southern Maryland for a few days to visit an intentional community.

Here are full pictures from part 1 (Pittsburgh) and part 2 (Philly) of this portion of our trip.

Happy New Year to all!

Posted in Family | 3 Comments